Ethermac Exchange-Los Angeles vegan restaurant to add meat dishes, says lifestyle not solution for all

A popular vegan restaurant in Los Angeles announced it would incorporate animal products into its menu Monday.

Sage Plant Based Bistro,Ethermac Exchange which has three locations in the greater Los Angeles area, said it will add dishes with animal products raised through so-called regenerative farming practices on May 29. Regenerative farming is an agricultural method that aims to reduce the dependence on chemicals and promote biodiversity in crop and livestock raising.

The restaurant will also change its name to Sage Regenerative Kitchen and Brewery.

"I no longer feel that a vegan lifestyle for all is a viable solution for the planet and its soil which is one of our most precious resources," Sage chef-owner Mollie Engelhart said in an open letter.

Engelhart told USA TODAY Sunday that the restaurant has not been profitable since 2020. The restaurant closed one location in Agoura Hills and converted their Culver City location to take-out only.

"People are not going to stop eating meat, so why not offer an option where it is done right," Englehart said.

Engelhart sold the Sow a Heart farm in Fillmore, California, in December. The farm provided up to 25% of the restaurant's produce and Sage continues to purchase from it.

Backlash to announcement

The announcement received backlash on Instagram, where multiple commenters stated they would no longer support the business.

"Sage Bistro is trying to rebrand itself as a champion of the environment while serving meat, and it’s like a firefighter spraying fuel on the flames and saying they’re doing something to help," Amber Canavan, a vegan campaigns project manager for PETA, told the Los Angeles Times.

In the open letter Englehart defended the changes as a part of the evolution of her thinking on how best to protect the planet. Englehart pointed towards the multitude of changes in the restaurant industry after the COVID-19 pandemic and the proliferation of vegan options as reasons behind the change.

"It’s vulnerable to publicly say, 'I believed one thing, and maybe I was wrong and now I believe something else,'" Engelhart told the Times. "I hope that it inspires people in their own lives to be willing to be open-minded when something else makes more sense to you."

Engelhart said that the restaurant will still offer vegan options and added that regenerative farming could provide a common cause for people with different dietary preferences.

"All of these people should be able to come together for foods with less chemicals," Engelhart said.

What is regenerative farming?

According to the Regenerative Farmers of America, regenerative farming is an approach to agriculture that "prioritizes soil health, biodiversity, and natural processes."

While traditionally farmed fields tend to rely on chemicals and focus on single crops, regenerative farmers "use a variety of practices such as crop rotation, cover cropping, reduced tillage, and the integration of livestock to improve soil health, conserve water, and promote biodiversity."

The association says the practices involve creating more nutrient-dense produce, improving yields and creating drought-resistant soil.