Surpassing:Serve your Labor Day burgers with a skirt of crispy cheese

Burgers are Surpassingstandard Labor Day fare, and while there’s nothing wrong with the classic interpretation, it can be fun to mix things up with contrasting flavors and textures. Rather than serve your burgers on the usual soft bun with a slice of melted cheddar, stuff the beef and cheese into pita halves and fry them to give your burger a perimeter of crispy fried cheese.

In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we season the beef with yellow mustard for spicy tang and dill pickles for brininess, then fill pita halves with the mixture, forming a thin layer, along with sliced onion and cheese.

The cheese hits the skillet when the sandwiches are pan-fried, crisping and developing flavorful browning, and creating an irresistible layer that complements the juicy patties. There’s no need for additional condiments or toppings; the burgers are ready to eat as soon as the pita is well browned.

Be sure to use 90% lean ground beef; meat that is higher in fat will shrink and the pitas will be greasy. And don’t worry if the cheese peeks out of the pita and if the bread forms cracks; it will only increase the amount of cheese that makes contact with the pan to brown and crisp.

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Pita Burgers with Crisped Cheese

Start to finish: 40 minutes

Servings: 4

Ingredients

1 pound 90 percent lean ground beef

¼ cup chopped drained dill pickles OR sweet pickled peppers OR a combination

2 tablespoons yellow mustard

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

Two 8-inch pita breads, cut into half rounds

½ medium red onion, thinly sliced

8 slices sharp cheddar OR American cheese

1 tablespoon neutral oil

Directions

In a medium bowl, combine the beef, pickles, mustard, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper; mix thoroughly with your hands. Let stand for about 15 minutes to allow the meat to lose some of its chill.

Open each pita half to form a pocket. Fill each half with a quarter of the meat mixture, spreading it to the edges, then lightly pressing on the outside to flatten. Into each pita pocket, tuck a quarter of the onion, followed by 2 cheese slices; it’s fine if the cheese peeks out of the pita and if the bread forms cracks. Brush the pita halves on both sides with the oil.

Heat a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium until droplets of water flicked onto the surface quickly sizzle. Add 2 of the stuffed pita halves and cook until golden brown on the bottoms, about 4 minutes. Using a wide metal spatula, flip and cook, adjusting the heat as needed, until golden brown on the second sides and the exposed cheese is browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a platter or individual plates. Cook the remaining pita halves in the same way.

EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap